 |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
The
Bride of the Beqaa
A
red-roofed town set among the eastern foothills of Mount Sannine, Zahlé
enjoys a prime location in the Beqaa valley. Snowcapped mountains tower
above it in winter, while in summer its 945-meter elevation keeps the air
light and dry.
The city center spreads along both banks of the Bardouni
River, with the older section of town on the upper elevations of the west
bank and the shopping district on the east bank.
At the northern end of
town is the Bardouni river valley known as Wadi el-Aarayesh (Grape Vine
Valley) – the site of Zahlé's famous outdoor restaurants. Zahlé styles itself
"The City of Wine and Poetry", and with good reason. In this
century alone some 50 poets
and writers were born here |
|
 |
and
almost as many excellent wines and araks
have been produced in the area.
The romance of wine and poetry is balanced
by Zahlé's more businesslike position as the administrative and commercial
capital of the Beqaa valley (42.27% of Lebanon's territory) as well as its
rank as the country's third largest city (population 150,000).
Zahlé is
also an agricultural town which produces vegetables, fruit, grains and
most importantly, grapes.
Tucked away from
Lebanon's busy coastal centers, the people of Zahlé have developed their
own brand of individualism and way of doing things. Even their spoken
Arabic has a particular flair. The city's reputation for intellectual
vigor comes from a long line of writers, thinkers and poets who have
contributed to Lebanon's cultural and political scene.
Zahlé in History
Zahlé was founded about 300 years ago in an area
whose past reaches back some five millennia. In the early 18th century the
new town was divided into three separate quarters, each of which had its
own governor.
The city enjoyed a brief period as the region's first
independent state in the 19th century when it had its own flag and anthem.
Zahlé was burned in 1777 and 1791, and it was burned
and plundered in 1860.
But during the rule of the Mutasarrifiah, Zahlé began to regain its
prosperity. The railroad line which came through in 1885 improved commerce
and the town became the internal "port" of the Beqaa and Syria.
It was also the center of agriculture and trade between Beirut and
Damascus, Mosul and Baghdad. Considered the birthplace of the Lebanese
army, Zahlé has played a major role in the political life of the country. |
|
|
|
Zahlé's
Bardouni Restaurants
The
Bardouni is a river that flows out of Mount Sannine and down through Zahlé.
It is also a name synonymous with Lebanon's famous mezze and the delights
of outdoor dining.
The Bardouni restaurant tradition began over a hundred
years ago with a few simple riverside cafes. Today it is a virtual bazaar
of tree-shaded eating places known as "casinos," every one more
inviting than the next. Not surprisingly, competition is fierce, so each
establishment outdoes itself with fountains, pools, and cooling shade to
tempt potential customers.
Here you can enjoy the traditional Lebanese
|
|

A Bardouni restaurant |
mezze as it is served nowhere else. To add to the sense of timelessness,
delicious mountain bread is baked before your eyes and a man in baggy
trousers and fez is on hand to pour Lebanese coffee. He can also provide
diners with a hubble-bubble (water pipe). On the cliffs above the Bardouni
are the restaurants of Kaa el Reem, also known for their excellent food
and atmosphere.
|
|

Ksara Winery |
|
Wine and
Arak
Zahlé's association with the grape is pervasive, for it lies at the heart
of an area that has been making wine since early antiquity. At the city's
southern entrance the statue of a graceful female personifies wine and
poetry, but you don't have to look far to see evidence of the real thing.
The hills north of town with names like Wadi Hadi, Harqat, Bir Ghazour and
Tell Zeina are covered with the neat rows of vineyards that supply Zahle's
wine and arak industries.
Many of the wines have been formally recognized
abroad for their fine quality–equal to some of the |
best in Europe. A
tour of Zahlé's Ksara winery is a good way to see how wine and arak are
made. Of special interest here are the extensive underground caves built
around a natural grotto known and enlarged by the Romans. |
|
|
|
|

The Monastery of Our
Lady of Najat |
|
Local
Celebrations
Each year between the 10th and 20th of September Zahlé mounts its
week-long " Festival of the Vine", a celebration shared with the city's
"
Flower Festival".
In a carnival-like atmosphere "Miss Vine" is
elected and cars are decorated with flowers representing national symbols.
Zahlé is also famous for its Corpus-Christi festival which dates back to
1825 when the town was spared the ravages of a contagious disease.
Corpus-Christi is celebrated on the first Thursday of June with a
torch-light parade held on the eve of the festival. |
The next morning a mass takes place at Our Lady of Najat Church, followed by a procession of
townspeople carrying the "Holy Bread" through the streets. |
|
|
|
Back
to top |
W
H A T T O S E E I N Z A H
L
E
The Geha House
A good example of Zahlé's local architecture is
the restored
Geha House in the old part of town. Although this is a private
home, one can easily appreciate its courtyard, garden and arched upper
galleries – all typical of 17th century architecture.
|
An old
underground tunnel 1,400 meters long leads from the house to the
church of St. Elias (Al-Tuwak). Built by Sheikh Khalil Geha in the
early 17th century, today the seventh generation of the Geha family
resides in this 24-room dwelling.
Other private residences in the same area are the
lovely al-Hindi, Youssef Azar and Wadih Skaf houses. These are
several hundred years old and also designed with arcades and walled
gardens.
|
|

The Geha Residence |
|
|
|

Old Serail (The municipality)
|
|
The Serail
The restored Serail or government house
in the old part of town dates from 1885. This beautiful building, whose
architecture reflects the European and Arab influences of the Ottoman
period, will soon house the offices of the municipality and a museum
illustrating Zahlé's history.
|
|
|
|
|
At
the start of the 20th century Zahle began building hotels to serve its
budding tourist and summer resort trade. Although the "Sohat"
(health) Hotel built in 1878 has been demolished, three establishments
from this era can still be seen: the Hotel America, the Hotel Akl
and the Hotel Kadri (undergoing restoration).
The Kadri, built in 1906, has seen its share of
history. The hotel was taken over by the Turkish army in 1914 and used as
headquarters and a hospital during World War I.
It was from the Kadri as well that in 1920 the French Mandate authorities
announced annexation |
|

Hotel America in Zahlé |
of
the judiciary areas which would give "Greater Lebanon" its
present-day borders.
The Souk al-Blatt,
or "tiled market" is a market street leading to one of the
oldest parts of the city. A large part of Zahle's history was written in
this souk, where in former times travelers to and from Syria, Baghdad and
Palestine bought and sold their goods. A project is planned to restore the
street and make it a center for crafts and other traditional activities.
Housh El-Zarani
Housh El-Zarani is located near the post office on
the east side of the river. In past centuries this housh, or market
area, was a conglomerate of khans (caravansaries), craft center and shops.
Here shoemakers, woodworkers weavers, copper workers and saddle makers
plied their trades. It was also an important commercial center where
vendors sold agricultural and industrial products.
Many of the old buildings, embellished by carved
ceilings, vaulted interiors and decorated façades, still stand. Today
these structures are somewhat obscured by modern shopfronts, but projects
are afoot to restore the area. In the meantime you can still discover a
taste of old Zahlé here.
Sayedit Zalzaly
Sayedit Zalzaly is Zahlé's oldest church. Built in
1700, it originally stood at the center of the city.
The Church of St. Elias
The Church of St. Elias is the second church built
in Zahlé (1720). This impressive structure is also known as Al-Moukhallasiah.
The Monastery of Our
Lady of Najat
The Monastery
(1720) has the largest bell tower in Lebanon. The
monastery is known as well for a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary,
a gift from the King of Prussia.
|
|
|
Back
to top |

Monastery of Saint Elias at-Tuwak |
|
The Monastery of Saint
Elias at-Tuwak,
which dates to 1755, was renovated in 1880 after a fire. Today
it remains one of Zahlés most venerable monuments.
Tell Shiha Hospital
The landmark Tell Shiha Hospital, with its red tile
roof, was opened in 1948. Located on a high hill of the same name, this
site is a good spot for photographs. |
|
|
|
|
Our Lady of Zahle and
the Beqaa
For the most spectacular view, go to the 54-meter-high
hill-top tower of Our Lady of Zahle and the Beqaa located east of town.
here an elevator takes you up to a viewing platform overlooking the city
and the extending plain.
The structure is crowned with a ten-meter-high
bronze statue of the Virgin, the work of the Italian artist, Pierroti.
The base houses a small chapel seating about 100 people.
|
|

Our Lady of Zahle
and the Beqaa |
The Zahlé area has some
scattered ancient remains indicating a history going back at least to the
Bronze Age (1200 - 3000 B.C.). You can see cave tombs in the cliffs of the
Wadi el-Aarayesh, while Byzantine, Roman and Canaanite sarcophagi and
ancient pottery sherds have been found in the hills around the city.
Ameneties
All amenities are available in Zahlé, which has plenty of good shopping
and souvenir shops. There are 12 working hotels, numerous restaurants and
cafés, plus recreational centers, night clubs and cinemas. Sixteen banks
do business in this commercial center in addition to insurance and
currency exchange companies.
Zahlé's Tourism Office, a part of the
Ministry of Tourism, has offices on the third floor of the Chamber of
Commerce, Industry and Agriculture building.
Fifty-four kilometers
separate Beirut from Zahlé going via Sofar and Chtaura.
A slightly longer
route is by way of Dhour ech-Choueir in Mount Lebanon. Both roads bring
you to the south end of the town.
I N
T H E A R E
A
Karak (Noah's Tomb)
One
kilometer beyond Zahle is the 'tomb of Noah" found in the village
mosque. Although Noah's tomb is 42 meters long and 2.5 meters wide,
tradition says that he still had to be buried with his knees bent. There
is an ancient Arabic inscriptions on the walls of the mosque, which was
apparently constructed of reused Roman stones.
Furzol
In nearby Furzol you can see the scant remains of a
Roman temple just off the central roundabout. Beyond the upper end of the
town is the Wadi el-Habis
(Valley of the Hermit) with tombs and rock-cut sanctuaries from Roman and
Byzantine times. A fascinating place to explore, hickers can also venture
up the rocks above the site. At the base of the caves is a café with
paved terraces.
Niha
Located in Niha village, this restored temple of
the Syro-Phoenician god Hadaranes is imposing in its size and beauty. A
much smaller temple nearby, perhaps dedicated to a divinity related to
water, has not been restored.
Upper temples: From Niha a steep rural roadway,
usually traveled by foot, takes you up 300 meters to Husn Niha, or the
"fortress of Niha". Here you will find two partially preserved
Roman temples.
Tannayal
This estate, now a farm, is located on the main
road just south of Chtaura and is identified by a large sign. A visit to
Tannayal, owned by the Jesuit fathers since 1860, is a good introduction
to agriculture in the Beqaa valley. In addition to the usual farm animals
you can see a large collection of exotic fowl including peacock and doves.
A teaching facility for the Faculty of Agriculture at
Saint Joseph University, Tannayel also has vineyards and fruit orchards.
An artificial lake adds to the beauty of the site. Locally produced dairy
products are for sale here too.
Kfar Zabad and Ain Kfar
Zabad
A steep footpath from this village leads to the
remains of two Roman temples located on a high hill. Northeast of the
lower temple is a rock-cut relief of Venus locally known as "Bint el
Malik" or the king's daughter.
For those interested in spelunking, a beautiful little
cave, explored to 125 meters, can be entered with the use of ropes. Drive
about a kilometer along a dirt road from Kfar Zabad towards the
Anti-Lebanon mountains. A mountain footpath (15 minutes) brings you to the
entrance. |
|
|
|
VISIT
OTHER CITIES
(BEIRUT
- BYBLOS - JEITA GROTTO
- TRIPOLI - SIDON - BAALBECK)
(THE CEDARS - TYRE - AANJAR
- BEITEDDINE) |
|
|
|

EGYPT - SYRIA - JORDAN
 |
|
|
|
Back
to MiddleEast.com |